THE HAUS NOTES · SKIN HEALTH · APPROX. 12 MIN READ
You have invested in skincare. You have tried brightening serums, pigmentation treatments and perhaps even professional peels. Your complexion improves, only for those familiar brown patches to gradually return. If this sounds familiar, you may be dealing with melasma.
Melasma is one of the more complex forms of facial pigmentation because it is influenced by much more than the amount of pigment sitting in your skin. At Lau-vei Haus, we believe melasma requires a considered, long-term strategy. One that focuses on pigment regulation, skin health, prevention and realistic expectations rather than simply chasing lighter skin.
WHAT IS MELASMA?
Melasma is a chronic pigmentary skin condition characterised by irregular patches of brown, grey-brown or darker pigmentation.
It most commonly affects the face, particularly:
The cheeks.
Forehead.
Upper lip.
Bridge of the nose.
Chin.
It may also occur on other sun-exposed areas.
Melasma develops when melanocytes, the cells responsible for producing melanin, become more active and produce excess pigment. Melanin itself is not the problem. It is a protective pigment that helps defend the skin against environmental stress, particularly ultraviolet radiation.
In melasma, pigment production becomes dysregulated, creating areas of uneven colour that can be difficult to manage. The condition is often associated with hormonal influences, including pregnancy, oral contraceptive use and hormonal changes, although it can occur without an obvious hormonal trigger. It is particularly common in women and can affect a range of skin tones.
Importantly, melasma is not simply a cosmetic issue. For many people, the persistence of pigmentation can affect confidence, social comfort and the way they feel about their skin.
WHY DOES MELASMA KEEP COMING BACK?
One of the most important things to understand about melasma is that removing visible pigment does not necessarily remove the factors that caused it to develop. Think of the pigmentation you see as the output, rather than the entire problem. Melasma is influenced by several interconnected mechanisms.
1. UV exposure
Ultraviolet radiation stimulates melanocytes and contributes to pigment production. Even relatively modest exposure accumulated over time can influence melasma, which is why consistent sun protection is fundamental to both treatment and prevention.
2. Visible Light
Visible light, particularly high-energy visible light, can also contribute to pigmentation. This is especially relevant for individuals with darker skin tones. Tinted sunscreens containing iron oxides can provide additional protection against visible light, alongside broad-spectrum UV protection. Because with melasma, protecting your progress is just as important as treating your pigmentation.
3. Heat
Heat may aggravate melasma in some individuals. This can include environmental heat, prolonged exposure to hot conditions and activities that create significant facial heating. Heat is not necessarily the primary cause of melasma, but it can be an important contributing trigger.
4. Hormonal influences
Hormonal changes can influence melanocyte activity. Pregnancy, hormonal contraception and hormone replacement therapy may be associated with melasma in susceptible individuals. This is one reason why melasma may develop or become more noticeable during particular stages of life. Hormonal medication should never be stopped or altered without appropriate medical advice.
5. Inflammation and skin barrier dysfunction
Irritation, excessive exfoliation and repeated inflammation can aggravate pigmentation. A compromised skin barrier may leave the skin more vulnerable to environmental stress and make otherwise appropriate treatments difficult to tolerate. This is particularly important when clients are using multiple brightening products or undergoing repeated professional treatments.
THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF MELASMA
Melasma is commonly classified according to the predominant depth of pigment within the skin. Although these classifications are useful, mixed presentations are common, and the depth of pigment cannot always be determined reliably by appearance alone.
1. Epidermal Melasma
Pigment located predominantly within the epidermis.
Epidermal melasma is generally characterised by:
Brown pigmentation.
More defined borders.
A relatively superficial pigment distribution.
A tendency to respond more readily to appropriate pigment-regulating treatments.
Because the pigment is located closer to the skin surface, it may respond more visibly to treatments that support controlled epidermal turnover and pigment regulation. This does not mean it is easy to treat or that recurrence cannot occur.
2. Dermal Melasma
Pigment located deeper within the dermis.
Dermal melasma can present with:
Grey-brown or greyish pigmentation.
Softer, less defined borders.
A more diffuse appearance.
Slower or more subtle responses to treatment.
Deeper pigment can be more challenging to manage. Aggressive treatment may increase inflammation and worsen pigmentation, particularly in those prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. This is why choosing a clinician who understands pigment depth, skin biology and individual risk factors is essential.
3. Mixed Melasma
A combination of epidermal and dermal pigmentation. Mixed melasma is a common presentation.
It may include:
More defined brown patches.
Softer grey-brown areas.
Pigmentation at different depths.
Different areas responding differently to treatment.
The challenge is that not every part of the pigmentation will respond at the same rate. A treatment plan therefore needs to consider both pigment regulation and the skin's inflammatory response.
MELASMA VS OTHER FORMS OF PIGMENTATION
Not all pigmentation is melasma. Other conditions can create similar-looking patches, including:
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Solar lentigines.
Freckles.
Pigmentation associated with medications.
Certain inflammatory skin conditions.
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, for example, develops following inflammation or injury to the skin. This can occur after acne, dermatitis, irritation, procedures or other inflammatory events. Although some treatment approaches overlap, the underlying cause and treatment priorities may differ. An appropriate assessment is important before treating pigmentation, particularly if it is new, changing or atypical.
HOW DO WE APPROACH MELASMA AT LAU-VEI HAUS?
At Lau-vei Haus, we approach melasma as a skin health concern requiring preparation, ongoing maintenance and carefully selected treatments. The goal is not simply to remove pigment. It is to support a healthier, more stable skin environment while gradually regulating pigmentation and reducing the factors that contribute to recurrence.
1. Personalised Skin Health Consultation
Before selecting a treatment, we assess:
The distribution and appearance of pigmentation.
Your history of pigmentation and previous treatments.
Current skincare products.
Barrier condition and sensitivity.
Sun exposure and lifestyle.
Hormonal influences, where relevant.
Previous responses to treatment.
Your expectations and long-term goals.
This helps establish whether the priority is barrier support, topical pigment regulation, professional treatment or medical assessment.
2. Skin Refinement Treatments
Professional skin refinement may form part of a broader melasma management plan. At Lau-vei Haus, our Skin Refinement Collection includes carefully selected medical-grade peels. However, not every peel or exfoliating treatment is suitable for every pigmentation presentation. Melasma-prone skin requires particular consideration of inflammation, barrier function, pigment depth and the risk of post-inflammatory pigmentation.
Treatment selection is conservative and individualised.
3. SkinPen® Precision Microneedling
Microneedling may be considered as an adjunctive treatment for appropriately selected clients with melasma. It is not a standalone cure, and it should not be the first step in managing active or poorly controlled pigmentation. Skin preparation is particularly important.
Before considering microneedling, the skin should ideally have:
A well-supported barrier.
A stable skincare routine.
Appropriate pigment-regulating skincare.
Consistent sun protection.
Reduced irritation and unnecessary inflammation.
Microneedling may support skin quality and improve the delivery or effectiveness of selected topical treatment strategies when appropriately planned. However, excessive stimulation can aggravate inflammation and increase the risk of rebound pigmentation. The objective is controlled treatment, not maximum intensity.
4. Medical Management
In selected cases, medical treatment or referral to a dermatologist may be appropriate following assessment. Cosmetic skin treatments can complement melasma management, but do not replace medical treatment when indicated.
SKINCARE FOR MELASMA: THE ROUTINE THAT MATTERS MOST
The most important part of managing melasma happens between appointments. A professional treatment may provide an opportunity for improvement, but your daily skincare routine and sun protection help determine whether those improvements can be maintained.
OUR APPROACH TO SKINCARE AT LAU-VEI HAUS
We believe skincare should be purposeful. Rather than introducing multiple brightening products simultaneously, we consider the role of each ingredient within your routine. Our curated Synergie Skin and Airyday collection includes products selected to support individual skin health, and we can help you determine where particular formulations may fit into your broader skincare plan.
For pigmentation, the focus is on building a routine that supports:
Daily antioxidant protection.
Pigment regulation.
Barrier support.
Appropriate epidermal turnover.
Consistent sun protection.
Not every client needs every active ingredient. Your routine should be determined by your skin, not simply by how many products can fit on your bathroom shelf.
HOW LONG DOES MELASMA TAKE TO IMPROVE?
Melasma is a long-term condition, and improvement is rarely immediate. Some clients may notice changes within several weeks, while others require months of consistent treatment.
The response depends on several factors, including:
Pigment depth.
Skin type.
Hormonal influences.
Previous inflammation.
Treatment selection.
Consistency with skincare.
Sun and visible-light exposure.
Epidermal pigmentation may respond more readily than deeper dermal pigmentation, while mixed presentations can respond unevenly. Importantly, melasma can recur even after significant improvement. This is why maintenance should be considered part of treatment rather than something that begins once pigmentation has disappeared.
CAN MELASMA BE CURED?
There is no guaranteed permanent cure for melasma. However, meaningful improvement is possible.
A successful management plan focuses on:
Gradually reducing the appearance of pigmentation.
Supporting skin health.
Minimising triggers.
Maintaining consistent photoprotection.
Reducing unnecessary inflammation.
Establishing a sustainable maintenance routine.
The objective is not perfection. It is healthier, more even-looking skin with a realistic and manageable long-term plan.
5 THINGS WE WANT YOU TO KNOW ABOUT MELASMA
1. More exfoliation does not necessarily mean better pigmentation results.
Excessive irritation can worsen pigmentation.
2. Sunscreen is part of treatment, not an optional finishing step.
Consistent protection helps prevent further pigment stimulation.
3. Melasma is not simply excess pigment.
Inflammation, hormonal influences, oxidative stress and environmental triggers all contribute.
4. Microneedling is not suitable for every client.
Preparation, pigment depth and inflammation matter.
5. Maintenance is essential.
Melasma can recur, even after successful treatment.
A MORE CONSIDERED APPROACH TO PIGMENTATION
If you have spent years trying to fade pigmentation, we understand how frustrating it can be when it returns. Melasma requires more than a brightening serum or an occasional professional treatment. It requires understanding what is driving your pigmentation, supporting your skin's barrier, protecting against environmental triggers and selecting treatments that work with your skin rather than against it.
At Lau-vei Haus, our approach is consultation-led, personalised and focused on long-term skin health. If you are navigating melasma or persistent pigmentation and are unsure where to begin, a personalised Skin Health Consultation can help establish a considered starting point.
Education before decision, always.
Lauren Chandler
Registered Nurse · Advanced Dermal Clinician · Aesthetic Clinical Trainer
Founder, Lau-vei Haus
Ascot, Brisbane
Personalised aesthetic medicine, skin health and regenerative care.
This article is intended for general educational purposes and does not replace medical diagnosis or treatment. Pigmentation should be appropriately assessed before treatment. Prescription therapies and supplements require individual medical consideration.